Cincinnati chili - no, it's not real chili; it's better
What it is and why you should DIY it for Super Bowl Sunday 2022
Although I'm not a sports fan, I'm excited the Bengals are Super Bowl-bound, if only because Cincinnati is my hometown. With everyone abuzz about the big game - and Cincy - it has me reminiscing about my time in this uniquely Midwestern town. It’s also made me super hungry - for Cincinnati chili. ~JRC
Note: Feb. 11th, 2022 - In the first version of this article I left out the allspice! It’s now included in the ingredients (1/2 tsp ground).
Perhaps you've heard of this improbable concoction that bears little resemblance to traditional chili. Topped with bright orange cheddar cheese, Cincinnati chili is a hometown favorite, despite everyone outside the region saying it ain't chili at all. Whatever it is - or isn't - one thing is clear: Cincinnati chili is a true example of American melting pot cuisine. And I say it’s delicious. So read on to learn more about this Ohio Valley staple - and discover how you too can - and should - make it yourself for this coming Super Bowl Sunday.
First, let's get the "chili name thing” out of the way. No, Cincinnati chili is not traditional chili con carne or "Tex-Mex chili" - not at all. Instead, it’s a Mediterranean-style meat sauce adapted to American palates, often served as a topping for spaghetti or hot dogs.
Invented by immigrants Tom and John Kiradjieff around 1922, Cincinnati chili is akin to the traditional Greek meat dish saltsa kima. The brothers made their version more enticing for Americans by calling it "chili" and topping it with finely shredded cheddar cheese. This formula worked beautifully and the dish made its way into the cultural and culinary ethos of Cincinnati.
Many Cincinnati chili "parlors" have come into being over the years, first popularized by the Kiradjieff's Empress Chili. Others followed, including owner-operated restaurants like Camp Washington Chili and the regional chains Skyline and Gold Star. Today there are a couple hundred Cincinnati chili restaurants throughout the Ohio Valley and neighboring regions (with several popping up elsewhere around the country and even around the world).
Cincinnati chili has a ground beef base with minced onion and tomato sauce for taste and body (yes, it sure starts like regular chili). What sets it apart is a mix of intense spices. Cinnamon, coriander, allspice, and cloves dominate, with some recipes even calling for cocoa powder or unsweetened chocolate. Cayenne and black pepper make this dish slightly spicy. All in all, it’s anything but regular chili.
How to - quick fix
There are a few pre-made options if you want Cincinnati chili but don't live near a Cincinnati chili parlor. You can order canned or frozen (it's available on Amazon, for example) or buy a Cincy-style chili mix (also on Amazon) and prepare it at home by adding it to ground beef. I've tried all of these, and they are each surprisingly good. Due to its slow-cooked preparation, Cincinnati chili both freezes and cans well. And the spices are what make the dish what it is, so the packaged mixes do the meal justice.
Recently, though, I've learned the best way to enjoy Cincinnati chili (while away from Cincinnati) is to make it from scratch.
How to - from scratch (the real way)
For the longest time, the biggest hesitation I had with DIYing my own Cincy chili was the plethora of recipes to choose from. Many claim to be the "authentic" Cincinnati chili recipe, but they all seem to differ somewhat. I was afraid of picking the wrong one because it's a big commitment to make Cincinnati chili - the dish must slow cook for hours and is best prepared a day in advance to bring out the full flavor. So what a bummer that after 24 hours, your chili turns out to be a dud.
Why so many recipes? Most are trying to precisely recreate a favorite version (e.g., Skyline). But all, and I mean ALL of the Cincinnati chili restaurants keep their recipes tightly guarded. Yes, most formulae have similar ingredients because, frankly, they all taste a lot alike. But there's great debate over how much of any single ingredient goes into authentic Cincinnati chili. It's enough to make the most dedicated DIY cook hang up the apron and head out to their favorite chili parlor instead.
But given this most auspicious occasion (the Bengals in the Super Bowl?!), I finally decided to have a go at making Cincinnati chili from scratch. So I took the plunge, picked a version, and went with it.
After looking at dozens of recipes online, I opted for one that did not include "chili powder" in the ingredients. Many versions call for this stuff which can be anything from straight powdered chili pepper to a blend of dried peppers, cumin, onion, garlic, and salt. If you buy a jar of "chili powder" from the grocery, it will undoubtedly be the latter, and I think this is what most recipes that call for it mean. That's all good and well, but I opted to add these ingredients separately, assuming that the Kiradjieff brothers would not have used chili powder blends either (who knows, really; it’s a secret recipe, after all).
I am pleased to report my first (and only) attempt at making Cincinnati chili was a resounding success. It tasted like the real thing and frankly smelled wonderful throughout the cooking process. I was amazed how the independent spices started out strong on the nose yet melded into a far more harmonious aroma by the end.
I plan to make it again for Super Bowl weekend and am sharing the recipe here if you want to do the same. Note that what follows includes minor tweaks from what I originally made. Most notably, I've eliminated added sugar (tomato paste is inherently sweet enough), and I've reduced the cloves from a quarter teaspoon to three whole cloves. I've also included an option for crushed tomatoes plus one can of tomato paste (instead of two cans of paste). Note that I’ve yet to try this but I expect it should work fine.
If you have had Cincinnati chili and love it, you'll be pleased with this recipe. And if not, but you want to give it a try, here's an excellent place to start. The dish is not hard to make; the most challenging part is doling out the rather long list of spices. Make a checklist and mark the ingredients off one by one so you don't miss or duplicate anything.
Happy making. I hope you enjoy the game, along with some homemade Cincinnati chili.
Authentic Cincinnati Chili from scratch
Cincinnati chili is not chunky like traditional chili. Ensure the beef is finely minced using an immersion blender (described below). And pre-mince the onions as well as puree the optional crushed tomatoes in a food processor before adding these to the pot. The final chili will be on the runny, almost watery side. If necessary, add more water near the end to achieve the desired consistency.
Pro tip: make this recipe the day before. It's amazing how the flavors meld together overnight!
Ingredients:
6 cups water
2 pounds extra-lean ground beef
1 large onion finely minced (use a food processor)
2 six oz. cans of tomato paste; OPTIONAL: substitute one can tomato paste for one 15 oz can crushed tomatoes - pureed in a food processor - and reduce water by one cup)
1 Tablespoon (Tbl) apple cider vinegar
1 Tbl Worcestershire sauce
3 whole cloves
2 bay leaves
1 and 1/2 teaspoon (tsp) garlic powder
1 and 1/2 tsp salt (more or less to taste)
1 and 1/2 tsp unsweetened baking cocoa
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground allspice
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp Cayenne pepper (more or less to taste)
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
pinch of paprika
Other ingredients (for serving):
hot dogs and buns OR cooked thick spaghetti
diced onions
cooked whole red kidney beans (warmed)
finely shredded mild or medium cheddar cheese
hot sauce
oyster crackers
Do not brown the beef. Instead, add the water and ground meat to a large soup pot and bring to a full boil then immediately reduce to a slow simmer. As the beef starts to cook (after about two minutes), use an immersion blender to break up the ground meat into tiny bits (it will look gross, but trust me! Authentic Cincinnati chili is not chunky at all, and this step ensures the best result).
Continue to simmer on medium-low for 30 minutes more.
Next, do not drain the water. Add tomato paste (or optional paste plus crushed tomato puree) to the simmering pot and stir. Add onions and stir. Then add everything else.
Seriously - add everything. It's that easy.
Cook on medium-low for an hour, stirring occasionally. Cover and continue to simmer for four to five additional hours. Taste for salt and heat and adjust as desired.
Serving
Cincinnati chili is served on hotdogs (known as a "coney dog") or atop spaghetti. Finely diced onions, whole red kidney beans, and finely shredded cheddar cheese are optional toppings.
A note on cheese: Don't use pre-shredded, whatever you do. It's much better to shred your own right before serving. And for best results, use one of those super fine shredders, not the chunky version; the cheese should be in big fluffy mounds.
Served on spaghetti, Cincinnatians refer to the "way" system, which determines the additional toppings:
Two-way: spaghetti topped with chili
Three-way: spaghetti, chili, and cheese
Four-way w/ onion: spaghetti, chili, onions, and cheese
Four-way w/ bean: spaghetti, chili, beans, and cheese
Five-way: spaghetti, chili, onions, beans, and cheese
Serve with oyster crackers. If you wish, add some hot sauce right before digging in. The local favorite is Frank's RedHot, although some prefer Tobasco.
To eat, use only a fork (no knife for cutting and no spoon for twirling). Slice into the mound of chili goodness using the side of your fork, like you would a piece of cake. The rapidly melting cheese on top holds it all together, making it relatively easy to do. Finally, devour with a big handful of oyster crackers that’ll help sop up all the juicy goodness.
There you have it - Cincinnati chili from scratch. Give it a try and see for yourself.
No, it's not real chili; it's better.
Until next time.
JRC
Note: The recipe shared here is a modified version of that provided by Heidy Linn McCallum on her website.
Delicious !! There is a lot of work, but worth it
This sounds GREAT!